KANE AND TS UNIQUE - AW11

I've decided to lump these two collections for this review, partly for time/space and partly to illustrate a stark contrast between what happens when you transform childhood memories into fashion and get it right and what happens when you rip off Disney and get it wrong.

I'm starting with the exponentially positive - Christopher Kane.

His fluro-neon, "Princess Margaret on acid" (anyone else sick of hearing that quote?) SS11 collection was well received by insiders and hailed by the mags/blogs as one of the key collections from which retailers and trendsetters alike should take inspiration for the coming season.

Personally, I liked it because it reminded me of sweeties - in particular Rainbow Drops - which in turn made me think about my childhood, and with AW11 we can assume Kane is still riding this wave of retrospective inspiration. Lava lamps, crochet rugs, soda streams... all were cited as inspiration for this, another outstanding collection.

I'm not gonna lie, it was a grower. At first I was like, muted earthy tones, a vaguely 90s grungy feel mixed with a weird futuristic shapes, FURTHER contrasted with conservative lines and twin sets? REALLY?! I struggled for a while to put the collection into context... Then I realised I was over thinking it. Once I stopped freaking out I began to see the genius behind it all.

The prim and elegant black dress is transformed by trimmings of liquid-filled plastic made to resemble lava lamps. LAVA LAMPS, y'all! This particular inspiration could have been translated in a really pedestrian, obvious way but Kane is too cool for that. Instead he keeps the reference totally literal while still retaining the wearability of the garment.

I actually had a top like just this when I must have been like 14 or something. It was pink and white though, but it was an open crochet-knit just like this with plasticky straps. I get it Chris. I get it.

You can't fail to see this is beautiful - all the tiny shimmering pockets resembling sequins are actually filled with a clear viscous liquid... This'll be the Soda Stream reference then. Love that the mary janes give the look a deliberately dated feel.

More close-ups of that amazing plastic/fabric/whatever. Designed to warm to the body, the liquid inside shifts and moves exactly like a lava lamp does. Like I said before, the effect is futuristic but rooted in childhood memory. Just breathtaking.

Possibly my favourite look, but it's too hard to choose really.

The longer I thought about this collection, the more it reminded me of my youth. As well as the pink crochet top, I also had a spice girls cropped-top with a squidgy, liquid-filled plastic square on the front that said SPICE, and a rug just like that first image. I didn't have a lava lamp (weird scared by them) but I knew loads of other kids who did.

It got me thinking about staples from my childhood like astro belts, mood rings, those weird alien babies in slime, and that TV show The Tribe on Channel Five early in the morning... I fear I'm going off on a tangent but I hope you all get what I mean!

Anyway, yes, this was yet another outstanding collection by Christopher Kane. Perhaps even more so than the embroidered leather of AW10...

Now for the not so positive - Topshop Unique.
I didn't hate it all, in fact some of the later, 30s-inspired Art Deco looks were actually quite pleasing but I was generally left with an overwhelming feeling of disappointment. Oh Topshop Unique, I had such high hopes for you, especially given the absolute smash of last year's AW collection. A triumphant nod to woodland creature/Lion Witch & The Wardrobe chic, complete with mental bushy eyebrows and even the odd pair of antlers... This proves I don't mind a bit of childish fantasy or over-the-top styling!

But to basically copy the (lesser known 1956 novel but later a successful) Disney film 101 Dalmatians - to literally lift the inspiration from somewhere else and represent it directly without doing virtually anything to it? Nah, I simply didn't get this.

This collection showed just how much Topshop is a retailer first and foremost and a design house second. I like fun and quirky, I like cheeky and whimsical, and I've even been known to approve of tongue-in-cheek, but Topshop more than ever needs to up its game. A few fake Dalmatian fur coats and dog-eared models does not a fashion-forward collection make.

Seriously, am I being overly harsh here, or does this just look lazy and uninspired?

Are the proportions here whack, cos this coat is making this size 4 model look chunky. Not good. A trench coat with Dalmatian sleeves... Yawn.

I've pretty much run out of things to say about this. And that in itself is a BAD sign.

One of the looks I actually didn't hate. But then I'm a sucker for a fab fur coat, dress and knee-high combo. Again though, I feel like I've seen this before. I have no doubt that if any of these pieces make it to the shelves they'll sell like hot cakes, but are they doing anything different and original? Nope.

Again, another look I actually liked. The Art Deco print and drapey, lounge-wear feel of the set makes me glad that SOMEONE put some effort into this collection.

I don't really want to end on a low here, but SERIOUSLY?

I feel like I can't look at this collection objectively anymore because I've become kind of angry at it. It's a cop out... I'm sure those horrific doggy jumpers will sell out, but it just feels all too easy. I wish Topshop Unique had taken more of a risk.

Christopher Kane showed us that you CAN use childhood memories and experiences as inspiration for something greater, but you don't have to represent your influences it in a childish way. I was ROOTING for them, but ultimately I wish Topshop Unique had done better. I really do.

AS EVER I'd love to hear what you think - am I chatting rubbish?

Congrats if you made it to the end of this post btw, what a MONSTER!!

ALEXANDER WANG- AW11 REVIEW... FINALLY!

Ahhh! HOW ON EARTH has it taken me so long to get round to having a proper look at the NYFW shows? I mean LFW is practically finished y'all and here I am at least a whole week behind - dear oh dear!

(Actually, it's been due, in part, to being pulled in lots of different directions by other parts of my life at the moment - uni, work experience, CV pimping, generally pondering where my career/life is headed... *stares listlessly into the middle distance* Aaaaaaanyway...)

It's no secret that I love Alexander Wang. My sage Rocco bag is one of my most coveted items from the Net a Porter win, and if I could have the £5,000 again a large chunk of it would go on more of his bags/shoes/shirts/jackets you name it, I love it. I'll be honest and admit that my enthusiasm (obsession?) for him took a tiny dip with his SS11 offering as I just don't tend to dig white. As ever I was still impressed with the cut of the pieces and the overall feeling of optimism and purity the collection represented, but what can I say... I'm a goth at heart.

As you can imagine then, I was suitably wowed by Wang's predominantly black pre-fall collection. In particular I mentioned loving the mind-bending mid-length proportions of the dropped waist/hemlines, and all in all it created a fitting segway into the AW11 collection which showed last week in New York.

Predominantly an outerwear collection, Wang took a detour back into what he knows and does oh so well - sporty, Gothic, luxurious, cool...

Wrap me up in this jacket/poncho effort, please?

Just effortless.

Loving the silk long-shorts and fur collar.

Is it a fleece? Is it a poncho? Is it a dress gone wrong/right? Who cares, just look at that drapey hem. I wish I'd seen this in action -can just imagine how deliciously it moves...

Looking to jazz up that old black suit jacket? Faux-fur sleeves people! Of course! Topshop is already taking inspiration from Burberry and adding leather to the sleeves of its trenchcoats but come next season it'll all be about faux-fur sleeves...

This reminds me a lot of the Yohi Yamamoto's "suit as security blanket" theme from his AW menswear collection - there's definitely something similar going on with the proportions and over-sized cut of this. Just inspired.

Classic Wang cool-factor, no?

Is there a strong narrative going on here (a la Rodarte)? Not particularly.
Is Wang breaking from all tradition and re-inventing the wheel? Well...No.

But frankly, I don't care. Like Alabama Worley in True Romance I found myself repeating the same three words endlessly while browsing these pics... You're so cool, you're so cool, you're so cool...

Thoughts please??


I'm aware this post has been a total Wang love-fest (and who doesn't enjoy one of those........) HOWEVER I've since seen some big-named shows I have NOT enjoyed so much, but I always hesitate to post those kind of reviews. That said, I'm entitled to an opinion and by gosh Ima give it... Topshop Unique, I'm glaring looking at you...

More posts coming soon...

PUSH YOURSELF



Should maybe have got rid of the bra...



SO I've been trying to get on board with new things, sartorially speaking, and figured I've put it off long enough... Yes, that's right. It's my first ever outfit post.

You have NO idea how uncomfortable I am taking pictures of myself - but I guess that's exactly the point, right? I feel like I've been stuck in a style rut of black, grey and leather for so long now that it's become my uniform. This spring I'm going to embrace new things like colour, prints....and outfit posts.

So here we go.

baggy floral babydoll dress - vintage Etsy.

Seriously, so baggy.

(looking down. Cool move.)

A little less baggy with an Urban Outfitters belt and Mulberry Alexa.

(still looking down....?)

Oversized denim shirt - Topshop Unique 09

(Ahh...looking up now, good, except also looking like I'm about to burst into tears...)

Pink cable-knit cardigan - Neal Spearling @ Urban Outfiters

(Hmm...sticking to what I know.)

Antique typewriter letterpress K - vintage Etsy

(Avoiding the issue altogether.)

Same.

(Hit em with the eyeballs. Good job...!)


PS do yerself a favour and wrap yer lugs round this....

The Strokes - Under Cover Of Darkness (Clip) by TheMusic.FM

TOPSHOP UNIQUE SS11

Pictures of some of the pieces first...

So yeah, the dominant print was "smoke print" which I guess is exactly how it sounds. At first and from far away it looks like a diluted floral, but thank God there were actually very few instances of overpowering flowers. If you remember last year's awesome Unique show, it was very denim, very young, with shark prints and colourful sporty accessories. This time around they've gone for a more grown up, sophisticated 70s-boho vibe which I also really like.

As I watched the show I jotted down some quick notes - not in shorthand yet, but soon! The main thing that came up over and over was the word "tassels."

Topshop have gone tassels mad! There were on tops, dresses, shoes, bags...you name it. I really love tassels, so I appreciated this, but perhaps they're not for everyone. You may remember me lusting after a beautiful tasseled bag from Urban, and actually there was a bag early on which looked a lot like one from All Saints - small bag with extra ultra long maxi tassels. Depending on how much it is, that's going on my MUST BUY list. Tasseled bags rule.

Also, like I mentioned before, they've definitely jumped on this 70s vibe that's been around for a while. Though I will never, ever, EVER wear a pair of flared chiffon semi-sheer trousers, there is no denying that on the catwalk they look divine.

I also noticed a lot of lame and liquid metals - by this I mean metallic fabric cut in a light, drapey way so it shimmers and reflects the light. The colour palette was white, black, grey, rose, yellow, orange, red, and brown. I didn't see any blues whatsoever (now I'm second-guessing myself trying to remember if that's true or not...) which is unusual for SS, but refreshing. And it's clear Unique are very much of the mind that the maxi and midi skirt are here to stay.

SO! Overall I was not disappointed, although my previous prediction for space/galaxy/star prints didn't come true - sadface! I really loved last years Unique collection and this one is so totally different, almost opposite to that one. Grown up, floaty, 70s, but also quite mystical and much more fashion-forward. Unfortunately I think the prices will reflect this, if the AW collection is anything to go by. Spare £350 for a bobbled cardigan anyone? No, didn't think so.

Good work Topshop, the only way is up from here on out. More of the brushed-out frizzy hair seen at Marc by Marc which was awesome. Hopefully though, the colours, prints and fabrics will filter down to the main Topshop line so we can all get in on the action, not just those of us on a bigger budget.

COSMIC LOVE

Despite all evidence to the contrary, I'm really not one for prints. I like a well placed muted floral, and the odd splash of animal print here and there, but as for all over prints, they make me a bit dizzy and since I'm small and curvy, I feel they can sometimes make me look a little chubster.

Having said that, there's one print I've been noticing around more and more recently, and it's one I can really get on board with - A beautiful cosmic space print.

The coveted Your Eyes Lie space print vest sold out on Topshop a while back and alas they haven't yet got it back in. They do have a selection of others, just not that particular one.

How stupid of me not to go straight to their own website, where there it was in all its glory, and most importantly, still in stock:

I ordered it in a medium - hope it's not small made as I really want it to drape and hang well. I've been day dreaming about this vest for ages, I don't know why I didn't just google Your Eyes Lie sooner!

This one's also a peach:

With Topshop Unique already hinting at space prints for SS11, I'll eat my faux fur cossack-stylee hat if this print isn't everywhere next summer.

SHE JUST PUNCHED HER IN THE FACE!

Another Saturday spent at work and another night spent watching Xfactor and Ultimate Big Brother with only my cat for company. Ho hum! However, things to look forward to - my tat is definitely booked for Tuesday so when it's done I will post a picture. Unfortunately my photos from Edinburgh were horrendous as usual - lots of ones of the road, the inside of my bag, my shoes, close ups of my eye make-up and about 100 of my and my friend posing and pouting. Facing reality here when I say photography is NOT my forte.

On to considerably more exciting things! Topshop Unique's AW2010 collection lands this month - indeed a few pieces are already online. I remember being ridiculously excited by this back what seems like EONS ago when I first saw it. There were some who were totally turned off by the furry woodland-creature-type theme (I'm thinking of a particular article here, possibly Grazia? Can't remember ahh!) but I was proudly on the opposing team. Like I've said before, the AW shows always excite me so much more than the SS ones, but even I was impressed by Unique's SS effort. I bought the long faded distressed denim shirt and wore it constantly throughout summer, so I had high hopes for them for AW.

Toppers' in-house design folks did not disappoint. Loved loved LOVED it. Favourite looks include...

So many looks to chose from, don't make me pick a favourite! The last one is like something out of The Lion the Witch and the Wardrobe - a cross between the White Witch and Mr Tumnus. I also really hope the long chunky cardigan is released to buy... Although being 5ft 2, it could look ridiculous on me...

I digress. This collection totally does it for me - quirky, fun, comfy, practical, young, wearable, textured... and totally sums up the whole feeling of winter - cosying up in front of the fire, wrapping up in layer after layer of textured fabric to brave the frost outside... OH GOD why isn't it winter yet???

In other news, Zara's online shop launched this week. If there is one shop that represents the absolute antithesis of my previous excitement, it's Zara. Believe me, I've TRIED to like Zara. I've bought one or two things from them in the past - a leopard print bag and a silk leopard print blouse that I actually really love - but every time I go in I am BORED. I'm bored with the sheer amount of camel and beige and cream. I'm fed up with the shapeless dresses and shirts, I'm sick of seeing hundreds of trousers that all look the same... I basically feel like it's just not a shop for me. I can appreciate a well made, well tailored pair of trousers, but, I mean, I haven't actually worn a pair since 2006.

HOWEVER, what with my recent penchant for purchasing anything and, quite literally everything online, I perused their new online shop today at work.

Now, I enjoy a good skive, maybe more than I should probably admit, but to my dismay I pretty much gave up trying to get interested and went back to work after about 10 mins. Dear me, Zara, in my book that's what they call a FAIL.

Some of the (in my opinion) most lacklustre pieces:

I mean, this plain, unassuming, cotton, single-breasted coat is £89.99!

This "dress" is £50??

I know EVERY single magazine is telling me that trousers are a AW10 wardrobe staple, and I'm not against them in principle, but I could literally fall asleep looking at these - £40.

I feel bad, I'm not trying to slag off Zara, but I just really cannot get excited by them. Part of me thinks I'm not Zara's target market anyway so I'm sure they won't care, but actually when I think about it I probably am. I'm 23, working full time, have money to spend and want to look smart (sometimes), so why am I left so cold by them?

Anyway, so as not to end on a downer, this arrived for me today :)

And this skirt is in the post :) :) (after being back ordered for no less than 7 weeks - doesn't bode well for American Apparel).