Showing posts with label scottish designers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label scottish designers. Show all posts

Wednesday, 6 June 2012

FLIRTING WITH CONFORMITY

Remember last year when I wrote that blog about the Edinburgh College of Art fashion design degree show? And mind that I also reviewed it for the List? Well one of the designers I mentioned, David Vallance, (who also happens to be a pal - yay!) has only gone and got one of his pieces featured on unique online fashion retailer MUUSE!

The concept is that if enough people pre-order his backless shirt dress it'll be put into production at a discounted price. And lucky for us it's pretty damn fabulous...














Pretty fierce, no? Looks something akin to a Cos or Zara number but with a more of a sexy slap round the chops. It's on at a pre-order price of $295 but like I said, if it goes into production the price will come down. Not bad though, for a badass designer dress.

David is one of the most determined and dedicated young Scottish designers I've had the pleasure of knowing. Having seen him working LITERALLY day and night on his final collection Flirting With Conformity last year, it makes me super proud to know he's finally getting some well-deserved recognition. The collection remains as edgy, chic and contemporary as it ever did and he's set the bar high for himself and other designers with a passion for slick lines and exceptional tailoring. Trust me when I say he's one to watch.






Go pre-order. Now.

(Photos courtesy of MUUSE)

Saturday, 27 August 2011

BEBAROQUE AND PPQ

Scottish hosiery designers Bebaroque are teaming up with uber-cool London brand PPQ for their SS12 collection which will show next month at LFW.

Exciting! You remember Bebaroque, right? The label founded in July 2007 by Mhairi McNicol and Chloe Patience which uses hand embroidery and imaginative prints to transform tights and bodysuits into works of glorious fashion/art?



Aye, they're the ones!

And you know PPQ don't you? The label beloved by folks like Pixie and Peaches Geldof, whose awesome, structured headgear last season made the models look a bit like cats? (hello inspiration for Topshop Unique's dreadful AW11 collection of doggy-themed Dalmatian heinousness)



That's them!

I'm definitely excited by this pairing - and good on the girls for starting to really make a name for themselves! According to Vogue.com, "featuring colourful tights, knee-high socks and body suits, the collection melds the two brands' aesthetics - including a body and legging decorated with an all over repeat digital print combining leopard print, PPQ brand letters, rope and tassels; and a fully embroidered and embellished body incorporating Bebaroque's best-selling Priscilla print blended with PPQ's rose imagery."

That last part about a fully embroidered body suit with embellishment and rose imagery? I'M SOLD!


Sunday, 8 May 2011

ECA FASHION SHOW 2011

**Bumper Post Alert!**

SO, on Thursday night some friends and I went along to the Edinburgh College of Art fashion show to see our best pal Kirsten and all her friends show their final year collections.

Believe me, bloggies, I have been WELL aware for months of how much blood, sweat and tears have gone into these collections. Kirsten and her friends had been pulling 24-hour days and working right through the night regularly in the weeks leading up to the big event, so needless to say I was on tenterhooks as I took my seat, ready to finally see what they had all been creating...

Oh my goodness, it was nothing short of spectacular! Not just the collections - more on them in a moment - but the production value of the show itself was utterly outstanding.

As one of Scotland’s key cultural events, the two-hour long fashion show set against the backdrop of the dramatically-lit neo-classical Sculpture Court of the College’s main building is an opportunity for guests and industry insiders to catch a glimpse of the best Scottish designers before they burst onto the world stage at Graduate Fashion Week in June.


The audience were treated to a slick show of collections in fashion, textiles and performance costume, and as I've said, the production value alone could rival anything seen at London Fashion Week in September. Head of fashion at ECA, Mal Burkinshaw, says the level of professionalism is all thanks to the students: They are some of the best we’ve ever had, he enthused before the show.

The standard has been so high, and it’s all thanks to them that we have such a professional and well-organised show this year.


I think they’ve really enjoyed the last few weeks of preparation, and now we can all finally enjoy the fruits of their labour.

As the light’s dimmed and the thumping music began, it became clear we were going to be allowed a close look at the collections, as the first model walked out at eye-level with the crowd seated around the semi-circular catwalk. This unique salon-style format is more commonly seen at haute couture shows in Paris, and facilitates an atmospheric and intimate effect.




The first collection to emerge was Tailoring: Fashion as Communication by year 3, followed by the unique All Walks project - an initiative founded by Caryn Franklin, Debra Bourne and Erin O’Connor, working with influential catwalk designers and top industry creatives to celebrate diversity between body shape, age and race within the fashion industry:



All Walks
 
All Walks

All Walks
 Seriously, what a refreshing concept. It's very easy to talk the talk about celebrating diversity in fashion, but when all that comes sauntering down the runway is gamine giraffe after waif-like 14-year-old, it can be very disheartening. I was so glad to see a special project dedicated to walking-the-walk about this issue. Also, in a similar vein, I found it quite inspirational that in the show programme, each of the final year students were asked to comment on how important body image diversity was to their personal design process. It shows great intelligence and integrity on the part of ECA and the students not to have shied away from the issues which surround the industry and affect how it is perceived from the outside...

ANYWAY, next up, the one we were all waiting for: the final year fashion design students’ sumptuous spectacle!

Impressive collections included Where Are We Going? Always Home by Pamela Hill – a knitwear collection inspired by warmth, comfort, pattern and wood carvings:


Pamela Hill

Pamela Hill

David Vallance and Anna Stephenson (winner of the i-on Graduate Fashion Prize 2011) also wowed the audience with their sexy and edgy, and feminine and floral collections respectively:


David Vallance

David Vallance
 I love the tailored shape of David's collection (entitled Flirting With Conformity, the rope embellishment and the contrast between the fabrics used. The collection was inspired by a recent period of time spent living in La Dune du Pilat in France and the clean lines and muted colour palette definitely says edgy French sophistication to me!


Anna Stephenson

Anna Stephenson

Anna's collection was just beautiful - really simple and stunning, and showed that no matter how obvious and done-to-death floral prints can occasionally be, a truly creative mind can always find something unique, distinctive and personal to do with them.

Nicola Paxton's Blue Sky Thinking collection of laser-cut dresses and coats were another highlight. I found this one of the most contemporary and ready-to-wear collections of the lot - I could actually picture myself in some of those stunningly intricate garments:



Nicola Paxton

Felix Chabluk Smith, winner of ECA Graduate of the Year and the British Fashion Council's Burberry competition, presented the only menswear collection (entitled Kin) of the night and the first ECA had seen for 15 years. I was impressed again by the intricate nature and sophisticated lines of the collection. Definitely one to watch.

But OF COURSE, for me the stand out collection of the entire night came from Kirsten Wotherspoon herself, with an assortment of soft, shimmering, metallic garments encased in transparent PVC jackets and capes:








Kirsten Wotherspoon and model
 The collection called It’s Better With the Lights On, is inspired by light, shadow and reflective photography. I don't want to say too much about it at the moment as I am planning another post about this particular collection, but it is definitely safe to say that even although Kirsten is a friend, had I not known her I am dead certain this collection would still be a personal highlight. Keep your eyes peeled over the next week for a post all about it...

Of course, needless to say all 20 of the final year students’ collections were stunning.

In terms of key trends, I'm glad to see I wasn't chatting mince when I entered that ELLE competition prophesising wildly that bold and bright colours would be everywhere for spring/summer. The majority of the collections were exactly that - bold and bright, with a vivid tangerine ORANGE utilised to its full eye-watering potential in several collections - Sarah Ho and Fiona Sommerville's in particular.

There were hints of Celine, Calvin Klein, Erdem, Dries Van Noten and Jill Sander, and I'm sure I spotted some Matthew Williamson in there too, but overall the collections were deeply individual and unique.

I have to be objective, says Mal, but they have all worked so incredibly hard – and it’s been very challenging. They’ve had to pull 24-hour working days to get to this stage, but I know they would say that it’s definitely been worth it.
 I view any student who has made it this far, got a degree and created a collection from scratch, as a huge success.

As the only Scottish art college invited to show collections at Graduate Fashion Week in London in June, and counting designer-of-the-moment Holly Fulton as one of it’s past graduates, Edinburgh College of Art has a prestigious reputation to uphold in the fashion world.

But after Thursday's show, it’s crystal clear the ECA class of 2011 are leaving with it firmly at their feet.

Finally, I'll end this monster post with some more stunning shots from the night:









All the photos in this post are by my amazingly-talented friend and photographer Nadine Yardley who owns the copyright.

They have been used with her express permission and cannot be reproduced from this blog without prior consent. Click on her name for her Flikr, or contact her at nads_yards_87@hotmail.com.

Monday, 25 April 2011

TEN 30 - THE UKRAINIAN GIRL

So, I know I am SUPER late to the Ten30 party, but forgive me! The following is a short (OK long) review of their latest collection...

Ten30 have created something truly unique with their fourth collection, The Ukrainian Girl. Not solely with the result, though the garments are stunningly-simple and gorgeous in their own right, but with the inspiration for the range.

You see, the Ukrainian girl after whom the collection is named doesn’t actually exist. She’s a fictional 24-year-old girl called Abigail - half gamine, Eastern-Bloc goddess and half English rose. Yes, I did just say fictional!

Alan Moore, designer behind Ten30 who was recently awarded Best New Scottish Designer at the Scottish Variety Awards, explains that Abigail – a.k.a The Ukrainian Girl - acts as an imagined inspiration and represents a mixture of his experiences and aspirations:

"My influence for this collection was born from my intrigue of Ukrainian pysanka, European ballet and 90's Versace. This range afforded me the opportunity to combine the most interesting features from all three to create a contemporary ready-to-wear collection,” said the 24-year-old designer.

Moore continues:

“I’ve been developing Abigail’s story and character for many months now. She has her own blog and Facebook page giving her a virtual persona. I want people to understand my designs through her eyes, as she is the pivotal point for the collection.”

Brilliant and baffling though this explanation may be, there’s no denying the beauty of the pieces he has created using the imaginary Abigail as his muse:




A Luxurious shift dress cut from Persian-style printed silk and adorned with a Peter-pan collar – detail of the moment, it is all about collars for spring – is a personal highlight.

A similar print is used for a surprisingly demure calf-length skirt, which conjures connotations both of the 90s Versace influence Moore mentions, but also reminds me of Christopher Kane’s latest nostalgic AW11 collection:




But there are also more wearable, everyday pieces present too, including a Breton-striped t-shirt, harem pants and pure wool boleros, all printed and hand-made in Scotland.

Cathy Black, head of textiles at Scottish Enterprise who provide industry support to textiles designers and companies in Scotland, said:

“Since graduating [from Glasgow School of Art], Alan Moore has created beautifully-designed bespoke garments and a number of successful capsule selections. The Ukrainian Girl, his second official line, is a beautiful mix of contemporary print on quality fabric.”

What is most striking about this collection, after the high-caliber craftsmanship and quality of the pieces, is the obvious fact that Ten30 are prepared to commit 110% to their inspiration without diluting it. A fictional Ukrainian girl might sound peculiar, but she has acted as muse for a dynamic and intriguing collection of garments which showcase Ten30 as a brand to watch for the future.

........

I unfortunately couldn't make The Ukrainian Girl debut catwalk show so could only review the collection via the press shots. I'd have loved to have seen some close-up shots of the prints and details, but on the other hand I do love the contrast between the gritty urban setting and the clean lines of the pieces in the lookbook shots.

Here's a few snaps of the show:





Hot stuff. Loving the quirky makeup, styling and presentation...

What do you guys reckon?


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